Giant Candy

jig for cutting foam candy wraper ends test cut of foam to see how this will work
   
glued up foam billet ready for initial cutting Initial cut making a cylinder.  the cylindar is later cut on the other axis to make a more ball shape.
rough shaped carved for the candy body.  Note i have left a nice flat spot at the center of each side for later attaching the wraper ends What a mess
Initial shap smothed with 80 grit sand paper in the palm sander.   Candy Wraper end with initial foam coat applied.  This stuff is really hard and sanding this coating is realy hard.
 
After some more coating, sanding and extra paint to seal the part before mold making  I found that making the recess for mounting the candy wrapper ends in the foam and hard coating was becoming a pain so i made a quick part out of clay and made a urethane rtv mold to cast two plastic inserts for the candy body.  This allowed for much nicer sockets on the candy body for molding
Candy body with some hard coat and sealing paint in the middle of the smoothing process close up of the candy wrapper socket in the main body
   

3/8 inch clay jacked applied to the mounted master.  The raised ribs are an additional 3/8 thick and are used to thicken the edge and provide keys for aligning the inner urathane mold with the mother mold.  For this one I am using alumnun shim to create a deviding wall instead of clay.  The clay is heavy and would need additioanl support.

Not shwn here is the fiberglassing process.  I sprayed three coates of just tinted resin (could have used Gel Coat for this) letting it start to gel between coats.  Then came back with a resin paste(mix of resin and glass balls and cab-o-sil) to fill the sharp angles into a transsisition that the glass cloth would bend over better.    

The original turned over in the stand.  Here the clay jacket is on and sealed.  The shim wall is removed here with the clay cleaned up making a nice edge at the transistion to the purple fiberglass.  Note the alumnum tape around the outer edge of the fiberglass, this is to create a channel to help build up the flange of the mother mold.
Sitting on the floor for a few days waiting for resin to fully cure. Pooring urathane into the cavity left by removing the clay from the first half of the mold.  This gets repeated on the second half once the urathane fully cures.
Note the weep holes to better allow air to excape.  These hold were plugged with clay once the urathane started coming out. Second half of the mold.  Note that there are two hold on this half.  The lower one is where the urathane was poored in and the upper one is a hole through the urathane that will be used for pooring in the resin for rotocasting.
 
Mold opened up with the master removed  
Clay deviding wall and jacket for the wrapper ends of the candy ready for fiberglassing the mother mold  
First half of fiberglassing completed, and ready for making the second half mold opened after making second half of mother mold.  From here the clay will be cleaned off this half and the inner urathane part of the mold can be poored.
mold closed up with urathane poored in. Mold finished
   
  smooth cast 325 with a high rotation rate.  note the clear with lots of small air bubbles.  The bubbles are not on the surface at all.

Parts drying from being washed to get the mold release off.  Note the difference between slow rotation on the left vs faster rotation on the right in air bubble creation

 
Gluing the first end on the candy.  Using a bucket here to hold the candy steady with the end straight up while the glue cures Light socket assembly.  This is an extended E-11 socket on a 4 inch pipe attached to some threaded steel bar drilled with mounting holes for screws

Light socket assembly is mounted under one of the end wrappers with the cord coming out of a small notch cut into the wrapper edge.

 

to paint these I hung them on thin twin to I could paint everywhere at one time

 

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